Espanola is the colony of waved albatrosses, magnificent birds of enormous wing span, which breed exclusively on Espanola. It has brown upper parts and wings with gray, waved bars (hence its name), a white neck, a cream-colored nape, and a handsome yellow beak. We were lucky enough to come upon pairs of male and female waved albatrosses doing their mating dance. The pair dance with each other in an awkward waddle, move their necks up and down in rhythm, clack and encircle their bills, and raise their bills skyward. Hi-larious.